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Problem taking out SRAM S300 48T Chainring

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So... I bought a SRAM s300 crankset, and wanted to take off the stock 48t. BUT, it's like the bolts are stuck in the hole or whatever it is. I tried taking out one bolt, but it seems too hard that it wont budge. Any advice?
     
March 18, 2013 06:48 AM
Jaysumthin
From: Kalihi, Hawaii
21 posts
5 bikes
Does the crank bolt have a little ridge on the reverse side?
     
March 18, 2013 06:55 AM
Liray
From: Santa Barbara, CA
66 posts
3 bikes
Yeah it does. I tried holding the back side of the bolt (where the ridge is located) then trying to loosen the bolt. It worked but the bolt now is loose and wont come out of its socket. Im guessing SRAM tighten their bolts really tight from factory.
     
March 18, 2013 09:11 AM
Jaysumthin
From: Kalihi, Hawaii
21 posts
5 bikes
I'm pretty sure SRAM puts locktite on the threads. I've had S300s and Omniums and both were really difficult to remove the chainring from.
     
March 18, 2013 02:50 PM
adrian13346
From: Brooklyn,NY
89 posts
6 bikes
Get a torque bar for the Allen wrench, you do not need that rear tool to remove it, just to tighten it back up. Yes Sram used locktite for their crank bolts.

I had a hard time taking it out when i want to change my chainring at first, you just need that extra leverage to break it loose.
     
March 18, 2013 05:16 PM
Yeah, it would help if you used a chainring bolt remover like the one here from park tools.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CNW-2-C...

Can't go wrong with $4. Pretty useful tool that pays for itself if you like switching out your chain rings every now and then. But yeah, some bolts do come from the factory with loctite and is very difficult to remove without the CNW tool.
     
March 18, 2013 05:18 PM
Liray
From: Santa Barbara, CA
66 posts
3 bikes
And at nightstalker, he's gonna need the tool because he said its spinning in the socket. It happens when your bolts are old, crappy, or for whatever reason. But yes, if they are new and fresh, you do not need the tool to remove it.
     
March 18, 2013 05:22 PM
Liray
From: Santa Barbara, CA
66 posts
3 bikes
Well Guys thanks for the help ! I was able to take it out. Yeah they put that locktite stuff on the bolts. I applied some lubricant and used the tool for the rear. It helped. got it out and got the 53t on !
     
March 19, 2013 05:56 AM
Jaysumthin
From: Kalihi, Hawaii
21 posts
5 bikes
you may find it usefull to track down some raceface chain ring bolts afaik they still do a allen keyed back side
     
March 19, 2013 10:41 PM
for anyone having the same issue, do not buy Park Tool Chainring Nut Wrench - CNW-2C. both ends do not fit the s300 and you will end up damaging the bolts even further!
     
June 16, 2014 10:18 PM
OH MY GOD finally someone has mentioned this problem other than me. I ended up having to get the bolts drilled out by a bike shop. I got some sram double sided allen key bolts they work like a charm.
     
June 16, 2014 11:03 PM
otiswolf
From: New York City
91 posts
4 bikes
To Adrian: the Omniums i've dealt with never had a problem with their chainring bolts. I don't think there was any locktite in there; they were bone-dry.
     
June 17, 2014 12:39 AM
IsntNigel
From: Brunei Darussalam
32 posts
1 bike
Advice:
If you can't figure out how to do something yourself without researching how to do it yourself, take it to an lbs and don't mess up your stuff.
There is a tool for this type of stuff.
I've used the one to hold the rear ridges to successfully remove a zen chainring from omniums beforeif it doesn't work with s300's then that's another story...take it to your lbs.

Ps. I repeated some stuff, but whatev. Ha
     
June 17, 2014 10:05 AM
outofstep
From: Los Angeles, CA
999 posts
15 bikes
I hate GXP but there is no other external bottom bracket single ring crankset (other than ROTORs but they are like $400)
     
June 17, 2014 05:04 PM
otiswolf
From: New York City
91 posts
4 bikes
you can use a chris king bb, and I believe phil wood even has some cups that can be used with one of their outboard bearing bottom brackets
     
June 17, 2014 05:56 PM
outofstep
From: Los Angeles, CA
999 posts
15 bikes
[quote][i]otiswolf said:

I hate GXP but there is no other external bottom bracket single ring crankset (other than ROTORs but they are like $400)[/i][/quote]

Not true. [url=http://www.retro-gression.com/product/a... makes one that uses a Shimano Hollowtech-type external BB[/url].

If you plan on keeping your Omniums around for a while, ditch the shitty stock BB and buy a [url=https://www.philwood.com/products/bbpag... Wood outboard bearing BB & Sram/Truvativ adapter[/url].
     
June 17, 2014 06:31 PM
Scrodzilla
From: South of Heaven
1005 posts
2 bikes
grangeyard - Your thought process is fucked up.

The main reason Omniums are so affordable in the first place is because Sram includes a low-quality BB to keep the retail price lower than other track cranksets. That being said, spending $145 for a BB that will make your crankset literally last for ever isn't exactly excessive.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a GXP setup if you use a quality bottom bracket. Nothing. At all. Ever. How many times does this need to be discussed?

Even when factoring in the added cost of a Phil Wood BB, Omniums are still less expensive than other quality track cranksets (Sugino 75, Dura Ace, Campagnolo), which don't include a bottom bracket.

It shouldn't be so difficult to understand that good parts cost good money.
     
June 17, 2014 09:38 PM
Scrodzilla
From: South of Heaven
1005 posts
2 bikes
@Scrod: I had no idea there was a hollowtech track crank, thanks for the info. I must say, my S300s with the Phil GXP BB is pretty fantastic, granted the only other cranks i have used are some old road cranks and a few times on a set of omniums. All in all my S300s, Phil GXP and 130bcd 1/8in chainring was about $300-$325, not to shabby for my enjoyment.
     
June 18, 2014 12:50 AM
otiswolf
From: New York City
91 posts
4 bikes
I had an S300 Courier, and I had some clearance issues with the 48 teeth and needed to switch... after some difficulty, my roommate helped me remove one bolt, at which point I was able to determine that a 5/16" drill bit would be able to bore out the other bolts.

I put a disposable allen wrench in the front side, and bored out from the back using a drill press, though a jig and hand drill would have worked just as well.

I'll need to give it a good cleaning to remove any metallic fragments from wearing down parts.
     
October 30, 2014 05:01 AM
dhiltonp
1 post
0 bikes
wait.....

by bored out does he mean drilled? I'm confused, did homie just ruin shit just to zombie a thread?!?!?!?!
     
October 30, 2014 07:58 AM
pwebb88
From: Bizzzerkeley, CA
506 posts
15 bikes
I had this exact same problem and ended up having to drill them out. Sorry dude its really the only shitty part of that crank.
     
October 30, 2014 01:10 PM
otiswolf
From: New York City
91 posts
4 bikes
Yeah, Sram uses green Loctite (which is extremely tough) on their chainring bolts. I've had to drill quite a few of them out for customers.

Good job, Sram!
     
October 30, 2014 03:10 PM
Scrodzilla
From: South of Heaven
1005 posts
2 bikes

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