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2018 Fuji Jari 1.1

Frame:
Fuji Jari 1.1, A6-SL super-butted aluminum, 49 cm

Fork/Headset:
Fuji FC-440 carbon fork / FSA No. 42

Crankset/Bottom Bracket:
Shimano Alivio FC-M4050 / Shimano Deore BB52B

Pedals:
Shimano PD-A530

Drivetrain/Cog/Chainring/Chain:
SunRace RS3 11-32T / Shimano Alivio FC-M4050 40/30/22 / SRAM PC-1110

Derailleurs/Shifters:
Shimano SLX RD-M7000-GS / Shimano Deore FD-M610 / Shimano SLX ST-M7000 / Shimano Deore XT ST-M8000

Handlebars/Stem:
Velo Orange Crazy Bar / Giant, 80 mm, 8 deg

Saddle/Seatpost:
Velo Orange leather saddle copy / XLC 2-bolt

Brakes:
Shimano Deore BL-M6000 / Shimano 105 BR-RS505 (160 mm front/rear)

Front Wheel/Hub/Tire:
Velocity Aileron / Sapim Race / Exposure Revo PD-8X, dynamo / Panaracer GravelKing, 48 mm

Rear Wheel/Hub/Tire:
Velocity Aileron / Sapim Race / Shimano 105 FH-R7070 / Panaracer GravelKing, 44 mm

Accessories:
Ergon GC1 grips / TRP flat-mount adapters / American Classic centerlock adapter

Bike History

Click a link below to see past stages of this bike.

  1. Initial
  2. Commuter
  3. Bikepacking
  4. Commuter II
  5. Nov 18 Tour
  6. Commuter III
  7. Feb 19 Tour

Added by aiber. Last updated 4 days ago.

As of 4 days ago, aiber has indicated that they no longer own this bike.

21 Comments

fabaceaesp

fabaceaesp says:

What are the fenders screwed into on the fork? Is there another threaded eyelet above the dropout?

Posted 9 months ago

aiber

aiber says:

That's exactly the setup.

There's another threaded hole by the dropout, but it's facing sort of forward-back with respect to the bike. The Jari includes a special eyeletted bolt that you can add to give you another set of eyelets.

Posted 9 months ago

aiber

aiber says:

If you zoom in on the dropout, you can see what I'm talking about - the two eyelets by the dropout. Here's the stock picture: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road...

Posted 9 months ago

trrubicon06

trrubicon06 says:

I just built up this exact frameset in a 54cm. I have 2 wheelsets for it. 700c and 650b wheelsets. The 700c currently has 38mm Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. I'm currently trying to find wide but knobby 650b tires. I was going to get the 48mm Gravelking SK's, but I'm concerned about the clearance for them. How much clearance do you have on the Gravelking slicks? Also what is the actual tire width with your rim combo? I like the WTB resolutes, but they are only 42mm and not bug enough.

Posted 10 months ago

aiber

aiber says:

Here are the [pictures] (http://imgur.com/a/wwH60Ow). I'm seeing 2-5 mm tops. My wheel doesn't look perfectly dished here - a major contributor to this is that the GravelKings, being tubeless ready, have a very tight and sticky bead. Even when fully inflated and ridden, the friction of the bead seat sometimes prevents the tire from being completely centered on the wheel.

Yes, I've tried soapy water and reinstalling and reinflating, but the only solution I've found is time and wear.

The clearance is really bad with 48 mm. You will have that much less room for a semi-tacoed wheel should it ever happen. Mud clearance is non-existent.

On 21-22 mm internal rim width rims, I get almost exactly 50 mm width out of the GravelKings. Once these wear out, I'll look for 44 mm tires.

Posted 10 months ago

trrubicon06

trrubicon06 says:

So what you're saying is... I can't stuff some 27.5x2.0 WTB Ranger 2.0 tires on 25mm internal width rims in the rear? I have a source on these really cheap too, lol. I'm thinking about getting them anyway and trying.

Posted 10 months ago

aiber

aiber says:

With knobby tires it can only be worse. If you can try before you buy, that'd be the ticket. Hell, try it out and please post pictures of the clearance.

Posted 10 months ago

trrubicon06

trrubicon06 says:

Sadly I can't try before buying. But, they are like 70% off MSRP. I'll let you know if I do. Thanks for your reply and feedback!

Posted 10 months ago

jairpeb

jairpeb says:

Do you know if its possible to route the dynamo wire through the fork? The fork seems to have the internal routing for the brake cable. wondering if you can double up on that.

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

I wanted to do the same thing. I asked Fuji/ASI about it & they basically avoided the question (saying they never intended for it to be routed for dynamo hub wiring). I'm going to assume no. I tried for about 3 minutes going up the non-driveside leg, intending to exit out the same hole through which the front brake cable + housing enters, but the wire seemed to bottom out on something.

I suspect there is an internal piece (foam? aluminum?) that forms the crown, thus segregating the legs apart from the crown in 3 distinct cavities. I also tried routing from the crown holes downward, but quickly bottomed out on something.

Note that I don't know if perhaps there's a hole in the suspected internal piece. The chances of being able to get in there might not be so great.

Here the Fuji rep wouldn't answer my question to the existence of such an internal piece or its geometry.

Oh well, that would've been really cool to do. If you do get it to work, please let me know.

Posted over 1 year ago

jairpeb

jairpeb says:

Love your build. specially the fenders. What fenders are those?
Would love to know where you sourced the wheelsets and dynamo hubs. Also, do the framesets come with both QR/through axels? and did you have to race/face the frame?

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

Fenders are the ones I have in the accessories section: Blackburn 26" x 60 mm (2.35") fenders. They offer a lot of coverage too.

They fit well around the 48 mm Panaracers I have. For front/rear, the tops of the fenders are as far as they can go up towards the frame. I had to add about an 1" worth of spacers to bridge the gap between the corresponding mounts. I've used them before on an actual 26" wheelset, on a 26er frame. My only complaint is that the front rubs when sprinting. Would've been great if they added a second set of stays for rigidity. Oh, & second complaint: the top bit of the front fender should be a little bit longer. I get some spray off the front.

Had I gotten true 650b fenders, maybe this wouldn't be an issue. The only ones I could find were either too expensive (even at cost) or really shitty. Usually the former.

I built the front wheel myself. Got the rear luckily from the local co-op. I swapped the rear freehub from 10S road/mountain to 11S road, & redished the wheel to account for the extra width. It's surprisingly still 142 mm OLD, although I haven't given much thought as to how that works out geometrically.

Spokes from local distributor. Exposure dynamo hub through Cyclone. Velocity Aileron rim from their garage sale website.

Frameset only came with the front/rear thru-axle 12 x 100 & x 142 mm skewers. You can only convert the rear dropout to QR, in which case I believe you just remove the closed adapters on the frame.

I didn't do any sort of chase/face/reaming on the frame. My Hollowtech BB didn't seem to mind. If I recall correctly, it could've been cleaned up, but not by much.

Posted over 1 year ago

Yomble

Yomble says:

Very cool - the only build I've seen with fenders and rack fitted. I'm thinking of doing something similar soon. Did you try with 700c or start out with 650b?

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

Nope - got it as a frame, & I knew I wanted road plus off the bat. Helps with rough commutes & all. I got some Velocity A23 rims tucked away, waiting for (11S road) thru-axle disc hubs to become more economical. Absolutely planning on having a cyclocross race rig come out of this too.

Posted over 1 year ago

m_sobie

m_sobie says:

Fuji has been really hyping up the Jari. How do you like it? Was thinking about picking up the 1.7.

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

I like it a lot. I usually run a size 54 cm, but a lot of the newer bikes these days are very upright. I much prefer an aggressive fit, so I'm riding a 49 cm.

This *is* the best bike you can get for an adventure/gravel bike. Clearance for 700 x 42 or 650 x 2" tires. Actual rack mounts (3 sets on the rear), 6 water bottle cage mounts (3 on main triangle, 1 on top tube, & 2 on the fork legs), thru-axle front & rear, rear convertible to 9 x 135 mm QR, carbon fork to boot, etc. I didn't especially mind the internal cable routing, I think it's a plus. Threaded BB also was really nice.

I bought the frame, then built it up myself. I have an employee discount, so I got an extremely good deal on everything. Fuji only sells the 1.1 as a frameset though.

To give you an idea of what I looked at: Soma Wolverine, Jamis Renegade, Surly Cross-check, & Surly Straggler. It wasn't hard to choose the Fuji among these, given its price & it having more features. Sure, you could probably get lighter or fancier stuff, but the price isn't there. I think stuff like that approaches a race focus & skimps on utilitarian features.

My gripes about the Jari 1.1: the paint is the weakest I've ever encountered. After a single mildly muddy CX race (maiden voyage on this bike), the paint already wore through on the chainstays by the tire. The tire is 0.1" smaller than their specced max tire width. I have 2 other random paint chips, but I don't know how they got there. Secondly, the stick-on shouldering silicone pad doesn't stay on at all. I can't see the pad lasting more than one inattentive shoulder mount.

As for your choice, I honestly think you should at least go for the 1.5 (SRAM 1x) or 1.3 (2x with TRP HYRD brakes) models if you spring for it. The brakes look shitty on the 1.7, & I'm adverse to square taper on a brand new bike.

This is honestly getting close to my N = 1 bike. I hope to only own 2 (this + mountain bike) after having owned 6 bikes.

Any other questions, please let me know. I did a ton of research before settling on this.

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

Sorry about the formatting. PedalRoom collapses my paragraphs for some reason. I forgot to mention that I now prefer aluminum for no other reason than corrosion resistance. So I really don't care about the wear from locking or other paint chips. I've put 1000s of miles on steel, & I honestly can't tell the difference. It's not worth seeing a pile of rust every time I do a BB service (this happens to my 1985 steel road bike). I feel guilty about riding it in the winter.

Posted over 1 year ago

m_sobie

m_sobie says:

Thanks for the detailed reply! I will admit though, while the frameset is available, I just really dig the colorway of the 1.7, haha. I work at a Fuji dealer as well, so I'm able to get it at a low price. I was planning on swapping everything from my Space Horse to build up a slightly more performance oriented light tourer/gravel bike, so would just need some better brakes and a bomb proof wheelset to build up. The Tiagra 4800 and other stuff would go on the Space Horse for sale. Again, thanks for the feedback, much appreciated!

Posted over 1 year ago

aiber

aiber says:

Oh yeah, I'm convinced the paint is the only thing distinguishing the framesets. Go for it then. It'll be an awesome bike.

Posted over 1 year ago

JiiiiM

JiiiiM says:

I can't wait to see it m.sobie!

Posted over 1 year ago

JiiiiM

JiiiiM says:

Btw Aiber, I'm looking for a gravel bike and I looked over the Straggler (650b) too. But there are more bikes like the Bombtrack hook ext and the Genesis Fugio that look very interested. What's your opinion on that pls ?

Posted over 1 year ago